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Breaking bread: what’s wrong with wheat?

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Description: This Food for Thought on-line panel event, Breaking Bread: what’s wrong with wheat? took place on Thursday 16 November from 17:30 to 18:30.

Almost everyone on the planet eats bread, but the bread we eat these days is very different to that which our ancestors ate. What does the changing nature of bread say about our food system?

Our expert panel will considered the history and environmental impact of this staple food in terms of ingredients, nutrition, resilience to climate change and sustainable production methods. They also discussed why so much research is focussed on wheat and whether bread made from other grains, pulses or even vegetables could be healthier both for humans and for the planet.


Speakers:

Dr Alison Bentley, Program Director CIMMYT Global Wheat Program, CGIAR
Dr Alexa Bellows, Research Fellow for Co-Health Benefits of Sustainable Food Systems, University of Edinburgh
Professor Shailaja Fennell, Professor of Regional Transformation and Economic Security in the Department of Land Economy, University of Cambridge
Professor Martin Jones, Emeritus George Pitt-Rivers Professor of Archaeological Science, University of Cambridge

Chair:
Dr Nadia Radzman, Research Associate, Sainsbury Laboratory, University of Cambridge
 
Created: 2023-11-17 11:21
Collection: Global Food Security
Publisher: University of Cambridge
Copyright: University of Cambridge
Language: eng (English)
Keywords: netzero; food security; food system;
Transcript
Transcript:
WEBVTT

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Nadia: Right. Hello, everyone. Good evening.

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Nadia: So just to have a couple of housekeeping notes

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Nadia: for the webinar today, the audience members, microphones and cameras will be off and will remain so throughout. And please note that this event is being recorded, and you're all welcome to use the QA. Function throughout the event to put questions to our panel.

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Nadia: and you don't have to wait until the Q. And a section of the event. The chat and resent functions are currently disabled.

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Nadia: So today's webinar breaking bread. What's wrong with wheat is a webinar organized by Cambridge global food security. It is part of the series of food for thought panel events. And please check the global food security website for all our past events.

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Nadia: Great to start. Our discussion today.

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Nadia: I'll let you introduce the topic. So great has been consumed by humans for thousands of years, and has always played a major role throughout history and across different countries and cultures for years it was the role.

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Nadia: It was the simple product of flour, yeast, and water, but in the past 60 or so years both flour and bread have gone through such methods of ultra processing that has led to make people intolerant or allergic to it.

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Nadia: and with the climate changing drastically in many parts of the world wheat is no longer a viable crop. Should we reclaim bread as it was, and diversify at the same time to bring resilience and more nutrition to people's diets.

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Nadia: This event will consider the history, economic health, and environmental impact of the staple food. Thanks to our panel of experts today. So I'm Nadia Rasmin. I'm a plant biologist from the Saintsbury Lab at Cambridge University, and I'm interested in improving the food system through utilization of gotten Cross, and today in our panelists, I first would like to introduce Professor Martin Jones.

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Nadia: He is an emeritus. George Pitt Rivers, Professor of Archaeological Science University of Cambridge. Martin works on Archibotany and archogenetics. In the context of the broader archaeology of food.

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Nadia: His current research interests include the spread of farming across Asia.

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Nadia: food sharing in the Apple Paleolithic and the development of agrarian societies and their food economies in later prehistory and historic periods.

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Nadia: The second panel is is Dr. Phil Howell.

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Nadia: who is the head of breeding in Nayab. Since joining Nyab from the commercial sector in 2,007, Phil has worked on breeding and pre-breeding projects, including Nyab's flagship, wheat resynthesis program, a multi-partner wheat, pre-breeding initiatives and the development of wheat magic populations

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Nadia: Phil is now leading and managing naep's portfolio of breeding and pre-breeding work across a range of broad acre, arable crops, including cereals, legumes, specialty oil seeds, and others.

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Nadia: This is often collaborative work with industry, partners from greeting companies and users in other parts of the supply chain. Field's input forms a significant part of Naep's work to raise the profile of domestic plant protein production through legum crops and other protein sources.

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Nadia: Our third panelist is Professor Shila Jar Panel. She is a professor of regional transformation and economic security in the Department of Land Economy University of Cambridge.

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Nadia: Challenger research interests include institutional reform and Collective Action, food production and Rural Development, Gender norms and Gender gaps in development interventions and provision of public goods and the role of partnerships.

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Nadia: She has been a lead investigator or co-investigator on several multi-million pound research projects funded by Ukri

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Nadia: Asean, Ugc. UKIE. RI. And Diffit.

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Nadia: She was also a consultant on inequality and Rural development with Oxfam, an evidence-based policy with the World Bank.

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and was the Social science expert on agriculture.

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Nadia: gender, and an author of the European Report on Development on Fragility in Africa, 2,008, 2,009.

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Nadia: Last of our panelists is Dr. Alexa Bellows. She is the research fellow of cool health benefits of sustainable food system. University of Edinburgh. Alexa is a nutritional epidemiologist whose research, whose research focuses on improving food systems to be healthier and more sustainable.

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Nadia: She is interested in developing metrics for diets and food systems to facilitate policy change.

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Nadia: In 2022. She was awarded an Immana post-doctoral research fellowship, to develop a metric, to measure sustainability of food environments and will be piloting the metric in India and Scotland.

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Nadia: Right? So to start.

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Nadia: I'll just

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Nadia: so we would

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Nadia: start our discussion.

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Nadia: By allowing the panel to answer the question, what is wrong with wheat?

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Nadia: And I would like to start with Martin.

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Martin Jones: All right. Thank you, Nadia. Now, at the moment, over half the energy in the human food chain comes from 4 plants.

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Martin Jones: and one of those plants is is bread, wheat.

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Martin Jones: and it's very efficient at doing. It's very efficient at doing

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Martin Jones: one particular thing. It's very efficient at creating a very large number of calories from a particular area of ground, and it serves us extremely well

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Martin Jones: that process. And and in a commercial monetary world that has proven effective. If we look in history at how long

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Martin Jones: that kind of human's been feeding in that way. It's a history of about 1,500 years in about 1,500 years that the world has shrunk down

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Martin Jones: onto a small number of very high yielding plants and worked in that way. which is quite interesting to me as an archaeologist, because the actual plant bred wheat

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Martin Jones: is about 9,000 years old. and agriculture is about 12,000 years old.

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Martin Jones: So for a long time, when red weed was around.

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Martin Jones: It! It didn't have fair.

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Martin Jones: It didn't have that. It wasn't dealt with in the same way. And of course we don't want to go back

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Martin Jones: to a past that's no longer relevant. But we also want to be aware of what the needs and possibilities of today's world are, which is different from the world in which these 4 plants became dominant.

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Martin Jones: and I think, for a number of reasons.

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Martin Jones: We don't need just to look

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Martin Jones: at the big crops that we've been looking at in

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Martin Jones: what for me, is an archaeologist's recent history.

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Nadia: Thanks, Martin. That was, yeah, really succinct and surprising how we look at like the different sections of the events historically. I'd like to now tend to fill.

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Phil Howell: No, this mistake. I've been reading. Wait for the 25 years I've been baking bread for for over 20 years. So this topic is obviously dear to my heart. And I don't think fundamentally there is that much wrong with wait.

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Phil Howell: we we know about this much maligned, surely with bread process, this industrial bread process which was devised in 1961. And really it was a response to postwar austerity. It it allowed cheap food, it allowed a reduction in import, so the Uk became much more self sufficient.

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Phil Howell: and I guess we, as society, probably trying, probably guilty of trying to make wait all things to all people. And it's become a victim of its own success.

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Phil Howell: here at Nyab. We're just up the road from the University. We do a lot of work trying to increase. It's genetic diversity and and stop the the gene pool from becoming stagnant, if you like. We've had large project in this pre breeding space to do that.

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Phil Howell: But having said that we need to be much more open to growing and processing up a whole range of of different grains. So just thinking where the Uk 70, 70, 75% of our arable area

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Phil Howell: is occupied by just 3 crops, weak barley, and all seed rape. And that's that's clearly unsustainable for for a whole range of reasons. And we were. We were asked by Defra to carry out a review of unutilized crops, and and we're very much at interested in in diversifying

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Phil Howell: both food systems and agricultural systems, and in support of that. And of course, if we do change that, it will have ramifications to both our food and our farming systems.

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Phil Howell: More than half of the wheat we grow in the Uk. And I'm sorry it's a global food security meeting. But I'm speaking from the Uk perspective over half the week we grow in the Uk is destined for animal feed and if demographic changes continue for for a host of good reasons.

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Phil Howell: We will be consuming less animals in the future. Therefore we may need to grow less wheat and the wheat that we do grow will be targeted more on food than feed so that that's a mind shift.

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Phil Howell: And of course, wait is is very hungry crop in terms of energy production. So

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Phil Howell: most of the carbon footprint that's associated with a loaf of bread doesn't come from switching the oven off. It comes from manufacturing the the nitrogen fertilizer that's used to increase productivity and increase the the protein content of the grain.

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Phil Howell: So we kind of need to wean ourselves off our addiction to nitrogen fertilizer in the future. To have sustainable food systems.

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Phil Howell: and the industry is is keen to support that. So the Nfu have a a bold target of net 0 emissions across the agricultural sector by 2040. I've been asked to join a panel down there in a couple of weeks to discuss how we can maintain

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Phil Howell: current bread, making performance with lower levels of nitrogen, and and

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Phil Howell: there probably won't be any easy answers to that

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Phil Howell: But at the moment we need grain nitrogen to be at 13% grain protein to be at 13 or higher, to be sure of getting good performance through current industrial bread, making processes. So something needs to change, to reduce our nitrogen requirement to do that.

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Phil Howell: So in a nutshell, I don't think.

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Phil Howell: and

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Phil Howell: there are any simple answers. Wheat can can be a fine food and a fine crop, but we shouldn't make it the only one.

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Nadia: Thanks, Phil. Like to now open it to Shalija.

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Shailaja Fennell: Thank you, Nadia. So it's not what is wrong with wheat. I think it's what human beings are doing with wheat. That is the problem. So let's not. The the non human is not at fault. It's it's us. I think. Another fact that we'd like to think about is

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Shailaja Fennell: the lack of diversity in terms of our serial intake. and that is actually just 30 years old.

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Shailaja Fennell: So at the moment up to 80% of the typical cereal consumption that we have globally. It's an average. Of course, it would will vary, but an average in terms of global markets is between rice, wheat, and maize

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Shailaja Fennell: with wheat, rice and made in that order. So the problem with wheat is also a problem for rice in terms of what we're consuming or maize is the fact that we eat super refined products. I'll leave more of that to Alexa, because it's her area of expertise. But what does this mean? It means that the nature of the food markets we have

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Shailaja Fennell: is is part of the problem. There's a whole futures market in food in these crops. All those who produce for their global market the supply chains want to ensure this.

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Shailaja Fennell: They would prefer uniformity, homogeneity, which means you go for a single variety. It tastes the same. It's a bit boring, and that is bad for us both in terms of

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Shailaja Fennell: what we eat is not what we need in terms of nutrition.

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Shailaja Fennell: And so what we're ending up with, as Martin said, is, we have a supercharged carbohydrate intake, which is actually bad for us because it is the onset of adult diabetes. So the work I do

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Shailaja Fennell: and

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Shailaja Fennell: the areas that we work in in, in Africa, in, in as well as South and Southeast Asia, there are numerous other cereals that are eaten, and it might just be quite useful to do a global shift and try and understand. So

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Shailaja Fennell: the work that we did in Tigris was all around, some of them all forgotten crops or underutilized millets. They were the majority crop, and of course Martin has done work historically on that. So it's a very particular moment where we're looking at what is wrong with wheat. I think what we need to understand is our food systems approach is fundamentally broken, and we need to reconsider that.

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Shailaja Fennell: The third point I want to make in terms of the stories. It's how we consume wheat, not just what we do.

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Shailaja Fennell: The story of eating cereals is far better for the human gut. If we talk about fermented foods, they break it down in terms of particularly and the ability to absorb iron. That's an issue.

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Shailaja Fennell: There's a particular rise, of course, in terms of gut diseases. And that's interesting to me because it says.

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Shailaja Fennell: Well, what's happening? The economic models are pushing us in one direction, the human body.

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Shailaja Fennell: The mouth is going much faster than the stomach, and the stomach is not able to absorb these things. So, in addition to us, generating human-made diseases like diabetes from our lifestyle. We're also creating huge number of new allergens which are increasing because of the way in which we're eating.

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Shailaja Fennell: And some of this has to do in where we put wheat. Why, we putting into thickness for babies, we shouldn't be having it before the age of one. Wheat creates, you know, a lot of that generation. And I say this because I'm I'm Tamil. I'm I'm a rice-basing community. We don't eat wheat till we go to school, you know it's not commonplace. So there are 3 different economic reasons there. Thank you, Nadi.

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Nadia: thanks shyly. And I think that you know, fits in really well with the expertise of Alexa. Especially on yeah. The different allergens and complexities, health complexities. Yep.

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Alexa Bellows: I think I'm next. So from a nutritional standpoint for the majority of people there's nothing wrong with consuming wheat, I think this echoes a bit of what the other panelists have said.

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Alexa Bellows: and but as a nutritional epidemiologist, I think one of the biggest issues with wheat is the way in which we consume it.

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The majority of wheat that we consume.

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Alexa Bellows: Is refined where the germ and the brand have been stripped away.

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Alexa Bellows: and these are the components of the plant that

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Alexa Bellows: have the majority of fiber and vitamins and minerals which would make wheat a

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Alexa Bellows: significantly healthier

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crop for us to be consuming

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Alexa Bellows: the whole whole grain consumption has been associated with the decreased risk of many chronic diseases, such as diabetes, cardiovascular disease, and certain cancers. But in the Uk, for example, whole grain intake is not achieved by the majority of adults and children. Or the recommended intake of whole grains is not achieved by adults and children.

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Alexa Bellows: There is a small but growing prevalence of people who suffer from celiac disease and Google

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Alexa Bellows: and tolerance where consuming gluten, a component of wheat and other grains is not recommended.

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Alexa Bellows: And I know, for so

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Alexa Bellows: disease there is a significant genetic component. But for those gluten intolerance there's been some evidence that the ultra processing of bread and industrial process that we used to create bread have exacerbated these symptoms, and slow fermentation and more artisanal bread could actually help relieve some of these symptoms for people who suffer from gluten intolerance.

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Alexa Bellows: and II, and also for slow fermentation in that process it helps

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Alexa Bellows: make some nutrients and minerals more bio availability Bioavail Bioavail bio bioavailable to to the consumer. So, for example, if you're eating a whole grain bread

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Alexa Bellows: if it's slowly, if there's slow fermentation, you get. You have more bioavail minerals from the germ and the brand.

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And so

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Alexa Bellows: analysts have said Diversity.

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Alexa Bellows: these older when we think about our diet. So I'm not gonna say there's anything wrong with consuming wheat consuming it in a

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Alexa Bellows: like whole green way. But I do think that just generally we can. If we diversify diets, it'll be better for

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our health.

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Nadia: Thank you, Alexa. I think, like there are a couple of like common themes that we've discussed, which is one of it is the diversification of the crops that we have.

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Nadia: So now we are opening the Q. And a session

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Nadia: gave the audience

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Nadia: has, or any audience members that have question, please.

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Nadia: Oscar, we through the Q. And A. Box.

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Nadia: if not, I can. I have one question

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Nadia: about

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Nadia: with greeting pretty mentioned. So now we know that what you need to diversify our food with a lot of

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Nadia: other grains. But we, as Phil had already mentioned, that had been an ongoing wheat breeding programs.

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Nadia: So should we breed our current weep

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Nadia: to be the better version of wheat or should we actually also have a dedicated breeding program for all this neglected, underutilized cereals, too, at the same time. Or, yeah, how do you see it?

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Phil Howell: Can I be greedy and say we should have both. So

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Phil Howell: yeah, we. So there's a constant need to to improve crops to make them more climate resilient to keep pace with diseases, diseases, a constantly evolving pest of diseases to overcome the the resistance. That that may be there genetically. We're all keen to to reduce pesticide inputs and fertilizer inputs as much as possible.

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Phil Howell: So it's it's more incumbent on the the varieties that we just produce to do more. The heavy lifting we've we've become too reliant on on chemist chemistry, doing some of the work

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Phil Howell: the biology should be doing and we need to look after our soils. So is a really precious resource. So we, we need to find ways to

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Phil Howell: to make wheat better genetically, and also to to grow it in a manner that's that's kinder to to the souls of the environment, to everything around it.

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Phil Howell: And that's that's that's true of all of these other crops. So

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Phil Howell: an embarrassingly high proportion of the research budget that goes on crops.

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Phil Howell: Again, from my UK. Perspective goes on. Goes on, wait. So

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Phil Howell: there should be some fairly low hanging fruit in terms of

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Phil Howell: the other crops. Then catching up in terms of productivity and nutritional traits and

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Phil Howell: and this sort of thing. So so yes, we, we still need to to keep improving weight. But we also need to invest in in these other things. So I mentioned we. We were asked by Defra to run a review of underutilized crops, and we tried to think of all the different perspectives in which

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Phil Howell: you could. You could wait these crops. So we looked at environmental impact. We looked at. Do you need to invest in special equipment to grow, grow these crops, so can you use it up to equipment? This sort of thing? And and the winners in in terms of grains were things like

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Phil Howell: why? And Tritika Lee, which can do well in in much lower input situations and are much more marginal soils.

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Phil Howell: we may see a situation due to climate change. Where we grow grain maize instead of growing, feed wheat for for animal feed, or

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Phil Howell: we actually grow durum weight in the Uk instead of instead of bread, wheat, and then we don't have to import doom for pasta

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Phil Howell: a crop which I'm sure Martin can comment on will be naked barley. We used to eat a lot of barley in in our past, and in some parts of the world we still do. It's a very healthy grain. It delivers minerals, delivers soluble fiber

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Phil Howell: and then the alternatives. So things like bug wheat. I know some food companies are looking at. It's gluten free, but it can do some of the things that gluten does

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Phil Howell: in your thickness.

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Phil Howell: that that babies shouldn't have before they want, for example,

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Phil Howell: quinoa, father bean, chick, p.

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Phil Howell: We just need to to be much more open to to using different things.

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Phil Howell: but we need to improve those and and make make them in a way that it's. You know it's it's possible to grow them well and and get good yields

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Phil Howell: and sustainable use

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Martin Jones: could I pick up on that. Now. There, if I may pick Phil's brain a bit on this, because I've I've had the privilege of working with Niagara, Jessis, for

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Martin Jones: for, you know, quarter century or so. And what I sense is, the big change is when.

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Martin Jones: when when I first started working with Phil's colleagues, if if I was working with something like wheat or barley. there's this, there's this fabulous set of knowledge, and we could kind of come in and hang on their coattails.

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Martin Jones: For historical, archaeological reasons we happen to be interested in this this Millip called panicum.

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Martin Jones: and at that stage, 25 years ago our colleagues in Nyobi said, Well, good luck to you! But you know, if you really must do this crazy crop.

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Martin Jones: and and there wasn't a a gene

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Martin Jones: the thing been done.

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Martin Jones: I'm just how much has changed over the last 25 years. So 25 years ago, there's just a handful

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Martin Jones: of crops in which we had invested enormously in terms of genetic knowledge. And so we could. I go on a beaten program. And now I mean, there are whole genomes, if not of broomcorn, but of citario foxtail minute. There's whole genomes as as the the startup cost of

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Martin Jones: of of working on a new crop.

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Martin Jones: Is, is so much less that the whole game has changed, and the number of the crops that Phil just mentioned 25 years ago, there just wasn't the kind of genetic platform to get going on it. But but am I right, Phil, in in the in the game has changed dramatically. And so the question of looking at other crops apart from wheat

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Martin Jones: has different answers now

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Martin Jones: from from

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Martin Jones: from in the recent past.

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Phil Howell: Absolutely. And that that's a lot of this is, is kind of cost driven and technology driven, so that the the cost of sequencing genomes has plummeted enormously since I mean the the the Human Genome project was called the Next Space Race, almost

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Phil Howell: and the the genome of wheat is is 5 times bigger than that's been done, and most crops are much simpler than wheat. So so on a on a cost basis, it's it's got much cheaper. The technology has improved.

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Phil Howell: But of course you don't. You don't need these bells and whistles. Mankind has been breeding and selecting crops for us, you know.

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Phil Howell: So what did you say? 9,000 12,000 years?

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Phil Howell: So these things can hasten crop improvement massively. But you you don't need you don't need these investments and technology necessarily to start a breeding program. You just need. You need variation, and you need the skills to be able to to spot

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Phil Howell: what's better than something else, and then and then take that on to to the next generation.

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Nadia: And I'm guessing, because of the climate change, the

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Nadia: unpredictable weather, that

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Nadia: it's somehow force us to actually look for other options around, too, and that's how we sort of look back to the history. Why, we've been confused before. To continue, we have a question from amber silk from Twinty College.

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Nadia: It's addressed to Shalaja. So you mentioned that producers have an interest in us consuming a homogeneous diet. Why is this? And is this related to the cost of production.

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Shailaja Fennell: Thank you. Amber. Thank you, Nadia. I meant homogeneity in selling. So, for example, let me give you the example of the Cavendish banana we grew set. There are lots of varieties of bananas that exist. One was bread

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Shailaja Fennell: mit ctl, and it has a particular shape. It has a particular curve, and that's what the EU will allow as importing. And this has to do with prescription of products. Sometimes it's related to food safety, but sometimes it's related to stacking supermarkets. Find it easier to have uniform crops. So you have only one type of banana.

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Shailaja Fennell: Similarly, in terms of processing of other products. If you're processing wheats of different type, or you're going from wheats to millet, your processing machine will have to have different grades of rollers. It can't simply move from one to the other.

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Shailaja Fennell: and therefore, in terms of reducing the cost from the field to the consumer's plate. At every level the economic logic is reduced the unit cost of production. So it's not a homogeneous diet so much as homogeneity of products that will then go into your supermarket basket.

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Shailaja Fennell: Thank you.

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Nadia: Thank you, Shelley, Joe. and we have another question from the audience. Laura Valli

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Nadia: asked, what are the main obstacles to ingesting more whole grains? Is it reluctance on the consumer's part? Or is it is the industry not ready to work with whole grains? We know that that'd be beneficial to both the human health and the environment. And I think I'll address this question to Alexa. Like for the I guess the this whole grain versus refined wheat, till in yeah.

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Nadia: the effects, then the impacts of it. Yeah.

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Alexa Bellows: so I do think as with everything, it's also very context specific. So II don't wanna over generalize it and say, these are the main barriers everywhere. But I know that some barriers from a consumer perspective is that consumers aren't used to like consuming whole grains. They, a lot of consumers mostly have consumed for fine grains their entire life, and so the taste is different, or the texture might be different.

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Alexa Bellows: and then, from a cooking perspective, it takes a lot longer to cook most home whole grains. And so

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if you are someone who

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Alexa Bellows: has it, a lot of time constraints.

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Alexa Bellows: I you know there has been some studies that have looked at one of the barriers would be poor experience with cooking of whole grains, and then people not wanting to buy them again. But II always hate saying that it's a consumer. It's like on the consumer that they should be consuming, or they should be. It's their fault that they're not consuming enough.

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Alexa Bellows: I do think that

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Alexa Bellows: the industry has a large role to play in offering whole grains at an affordable price to people a lot of times. Whole grain products are more expensive than the refined products, and

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Alexa Bellows: you know this is partly due to what was just discussed about

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Alexa Bellows: it's just cheaper for them, I think, to produce refined products. I also think you can market whole grains of these healthier options, and

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Alexa Bellows: then they end up being

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Alexa Bellows: for like high end consumers. And II think that we should make whole grains more accessible to everyone.

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Nadia: thanks. So, yeah, that yeah, it's it's kind of strange that something that is more processed. It's like, which

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Nadia: possibly require a lot more money and cost to to do it would be cheaper than one that's like, not as processed. But then we have another question

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Nadia: that's following the previous one, as we shift from refined wheat to whole Grails? How will farmers, both those farming wheat

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Nadia: and animals, be impacted?

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Nadia: So

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Nadia: seeing this might be fulfill, perhaps how would the change

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Nadia: of Oh, maybe, Charlie, Jack.

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Shailaja Fennell: yeah, I'm I'm happy to take it. But, Phil, please do come in. I mean the current project we're doing with with with another project looking at the peatlands. It's a different project. But the same narrative. What do farmers grow, and why do they grow it? And it would equally true be true in other parts of the world. So the puzzle that Alexa raised. I'd like to go there and then go forward. It is

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Shailaja Fennell: bizarre that whole grains are more expensive to produce. The argument makes no sense in terms of the logic of production. You produce. You then process and the processing cost has to be imputed. And then we sell.

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Shailaja Fennell: That problem happens because the nature of supply chains you want to reduce the cost. So you buy huge bulk you buy in forward markets. You make farmers sell cheap. And they sell cheap because it's assured, not because they're being exploited, but selling cheap in large bulk gives you your returns, and you want to cover your costs, whereas batch production or artisanal production. You need lots of purchasers and lots of purchasers is more risky because you don't know what's gonna happen. So you go for a built bulk sale.

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Shailaja Fennell: And that is a problem. It is entirely possible to process all

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Shailaja Fennell: crops

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Shailaja Fennell: in their whole forms, including bananas and wheat. We just need to package differently. This doesn't mean more packaging. It is done in gunny sacks before. It's just returning to methods that allowed us to keep the integrity of that particular commodity. So that's the first. It is the way in which we produce. And because scale gives unit cost reduction, we just get completely

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Shailaja Fennell: channel. It's like we have tunnel vision. We think only this way, because entire costing procedure works that way. It is expensive to break, and we'll have to think of the sunk costs of that because of one time. Change

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Shailaja Fennell: in relation to the question of what will happen. Well, farmers will sell whole grains, and they will package it differently, but you have to price it so that their costs are taken into account. It is not going to make a difference. In fact, it will be better in terms of whole grains being used, because all the energy. And there's a huge energy in processing of all cereals

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Shailaja Fennell: in terms of the energy use in the machines in terms of the carbon emissions in terms of the carbon miles of transporting these things, it will be far better to operate in whole products across the agricultural chain, including in cereal crops, so it is not going to affect farmers in terms of their costs.

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Shailaja Fennell: In fact, it's a far more effective and efficient use of the costs.

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Shailaja Fennell: However, it will make a difference in terms of their contracting, because you will need new contractors who are willing to purchase in this way, so they will have to be shipped to the supply chain, but I will hand it over to Phil.

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Phil Howell: I'm not sure there's a huge amount I can add to that. It's it's all making a lot of sense. So as far as

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Phil Howell: most

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Phil Howell: most farmers concerned, certainly those producing the crops. What they are selling is the whole grains. It's the processor who then buys the whole grains and refines it or not, as the case may be. So so in terms of selling, selling the commodity, and I think commodity is a very interesting word, and that's commodity is the trap that I think a lot of these crops have fallen into so there is a great reluctance from

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Phil Howell: from the buyers of crops, often to even to try different varieties, because they may have to have a an enormous storage bin for one variety, and if another varieties different an enormous storage bin from those rather than having a mixture and when you, when you move from one crop to another again, you you need to keep those you need to keep those separate because of the way we've set up our manufacturing and and processing system. So so perhaps

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Phil Howell: wheat isn't the dirty word here, perhaps commodity is the dirty word.

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Nadia: Thanks, Bill and Shalaja.

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Nadia: We have another question from Andrew Forbes.

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Nadia: Should we not keep an open mind with the increase in celiac disease, onset, and other gluten intolerances, that there may have been some significant changes in wheat, green composition.

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possibly associated with the almost universal switch to

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Nadia: Hitchweev. Dwarfed wheat.

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Nadia: for instance, that the gluten in quality scoring system may have narrowed genetic diversity for gluten content, possibly introducing digestion problems. Possibly in conjunction with ultra processing and reduced fermentation fermentation times. So I think this is the fermentation part. Alex. Scientology already. Sort of mentioned about it, I guess. Yeah.

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Nadia: all, all, all 3, probably. Alexa.

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Phil Howell: shall shall I have a go first. So thank you, Andrew.

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Phil Howell: and we have spoken about this before. I know. So yes, that that gluten is not not all Gluten's are equal. So we know there are some subunits

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Phil Howell: within what we classify as gluten that do a particular job that's suited to some end uses of wheat. So so a week that we grow and sell as a biscuit making or cake making wheat will have a different form of gluten to to what's required for for bread making it differs in its elasticity differs in its strength.

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Phil Howell: It differs in the way the the dough behaves during your

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Phil Howell: your your baking process at home? So

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Phil Howell: we have self-selected. What types of gluten we want in our varieties.

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Phil Howell: because of the way they perform in in the processing situation. So it certainly seems that some of these slower fermentation types, like Sourdough seem to be a lot more agnostic about the the strength of the gluten, so they seem to be much more forgiving. The slower fermentation lets you get away with perhaps a different gluten type

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Phil Howell: to the very strong glute, new need for the mechanical fast. Charlie Woodbury, process. And there may well be

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Phil Howell: nutritional problems associated with that. There may well be intolerances.

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Phil Howell: It's certainly my understanding that the slower fermentation allows the the bacterial and the yeast natural enzymes to to break down the gluten into more digestible subunits. So yes, it's it's possibly a factor. There are certainly lots of different gluten subunits in some of these more diverse

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Phil Howell: that would be be worth investigating. Yeah.

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Shailaja Fennell: would you like me to go next? Okay,

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Shailaja Fennell: So II what I would like to to make the point is that there are also older fermentation techniques. And this is, I want to bring in the matter of community knowledge and the ideas. And I think Nadia mentioned this in her earlier comment. So the Ipcc in its 2021 and onwards, is talking about traditional systems to to be able to identify underutilized

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Shailaja Fennell: crops. But it's also about the process of eating them. And a lot of these fermentation techniques initially are to ensure the longevity of what it is that you are producing. So it's also about being waste

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Shailaja Fennell: reduction, and a lot of that is very helpful. So every part of every one of the plants. So whether it's the banana and everything, or, as we said, in terms of the wheat and the hay, and you know at that time the stalk would be fed to the animals, and the grain would be fed to the humans. But the fermentation processes are very important because it's about micronutrients as well

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Shailaja Fennell: mit Ctl, and so there's a connection between the fermenting and what you're eating. And here I'm talking about the economics of it and the knowledge of it in terms of recipe keeping.

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Shailaja Fennell: And I think one of the things that's really important. And you know, you could say, Oh, they're grandmas tales. They're really important because communities have heritage crops, but they also then have values for them. And the point that Phil is making about buckwheat reminded me of the Japanese system where they will pay for the first cold press, sesame, and the first buckwheat, and it will be then also propitiated for ancestors

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Shailaja Fennell: and those kind of slow food movements like you have in Italy, and and these are the 2 countries, not surprisingly with the longest longevity, and it has to do with

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Shailaja Fennell: how you eat and what it has to do in terms of the cultural aspect. So it is true, for just going for food, as in calories and and and the point about commodities I made early. I think we're missing a whole part of that human, non-human, natural relationship in which food is about nutrition. So eat less and eat. Smarter is the version that would be helpful.

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Shailaja Fennell: Thank you, Alex. Over to you.

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Nadia: Alexa. Do you want to add.

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Alexa Bellows: I think everyone who

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oh, sorry.

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Nadia: Oh, yeah. Yeah. Oh, oh, it's about to come in like, do you want to add anything to? Yeah to the discussion on that blood inside of the atmosphere?

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Alexa Bellows: II think everyone has said everything I was going to say. So I I don't think I have anything more to add.

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Nadia: but I agree with everything that's been said.

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Nadia: Right? Thanks, Alexa, intelligent. And and Phil, I have a question for Martin, especially on the historical side of things of serials.

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Nadia: So how important is it

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Nadia: wheat historically, in the context of human human civilization? And what are the characteristics, characteristics of wheat that are responsible for its importance in human history. And are these characteristics also present in other cereal crops that

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Nadia: you know in I guess in another world. Kind of could it? Could

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Nadia: could it be that another cereal can replace wheat historically at 1 point of time? Perhaps

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Martin Jones: what I would say is the great thing

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Martin Jones: about wheat? And that in terms of human civilization is, I is, I think, of, which is like a loose balloon. If you can

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Martin Jones: pump it with nutrients and water, you get a really big balloon and and other plants don't

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Martin Jones: don't work like that. So I mean to be slightly slightly provocative. It's it's it's it's the perfect plant for a capitalist world, for for a marketary market world where

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Martin Jones: where you want to make profit

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Martin Jones: from crop production and and Big 4 is a, you know, a little bit like a loose balloon. I apologize for these not very scientific analogies.

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Martin Jones: And that's if, if, if if productivity of calories, I do stress calories, as also as we know when you blow up that that balloon you, you blow up the starchy end of sperm or something. You don't enlarge

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Martin Jones: all the other goodies that are in the embryo and so forth. So you reduce the

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Martin Jones: the mutual quality of them. So if if what you're after. Is

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Martin Jones: maximizing on calories per hectare. Then it's it's it's a it's an it's an ideal thing, and that's why it's been so important in the last 1,500 years and the growth of that system. And and you know I mean within that system. And so I don't think it's it. When we look to the future, I think the 2 things

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Martin Jones: we we need to think about is on the one you know what is possible. Now, that wasn't, as we said earlier, 25 years ago, but also what are the the needs? I'm actually kind of anticipating a question that's coming up that that?

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Martin Jones: When we talk about global food security. are we talking about making a profit for crop production? Or are we talking about feeding the hungry.

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Martin Jones: and if we're talking about feeding the hungry, we've got to work out who the hungry are, where they are in the world.

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Martin Jones: Have you know what options they have, you know, and what markets, or what interaction

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Martin Jones: I'm page with.

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Martin Jones: and and what and what so plants, and

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Martin Jones: suit their needs best. and so I think I think

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Martin Jones: wheat has served a particular

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Martin Jones: world system well, and it may be as we look to the future. We want to look at things in a different way. I don't know if that answers the question.

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Nadia: Thanks, Martin. That's yeah. That's interesting way to to see weeds like a a balloon that you just pump things, and then it just produce more and more and more. But what kind of will that are we actually envisioning for the future. Is it just like this, stripping the environment to the point that there's no return right? And then producing more and more and left?

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Nadia: They're the part of the world not having a vote.

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Nadia: So I think we can put together. I think we're working towards it. Yes.

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Nadia: no. Sorry, Martin. Yeah.

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Martin Jones: Say there isn't, there isn't a single answer. That's why I'm not saying we had either. Yeah, I think I think we're working towards. I mean

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Martin Jones: an answer where there's many aspects to it, and different constituents and different communities have different needs and work better.

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Nadia: Yep, that needs to be yup exactly.

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Nadia: There's another question, on the chat on the Q&A box in the current wheat supply. Do we consider, or how

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Nadia: can we consider the impact of the food system, farming to milling, to baking on the nutritional value in terms of micronutrients of wheat and products. Aside from fibre bread, contributes to the micronutrient intake of the population. How can maximize or utilize wheat as source of micronutrients

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Nadia: think?

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Nadia: this could be till Alexa or shall I do?

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Nadia: Yeah, yeah. Yep.

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Alexa Bellows: I think I can try going first. So there's the project that we've been working on with

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Alexa Bellows: a group called Scotland. The bread and they are growing wheat populations up here in Scotland, and they're really interested in producing the most nutritious bread possible

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Alexa Bellows: with their wheat populations.

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Alexa Bellows: and we had some small funding

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Alexa Bellows: to do, some testing of the nutritional components of the wheat and comparing them to other wheat pop. Wheat types as well, and they did have some higher levels of micronutrients.

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Alexa Bellows: Then they. you know, standard wheat that you would

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Alexa Bellows: typically see in an industrial bread. So there is some evidence of that. But I think the evidence.

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Alexa Bellows: Still, we don't have a lot of data on this. I think that there's a lot of people who think that

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we would see an increase in.

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Alexa Bellows: People consuming more micronutrients. If we were consuming

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Alexa Bellows: more diverse. Types of grains, and I think that would be probably very true. But I don't. I think there's still more research is needed in this area as well.

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Nadia: Right? So that's interesting. There is. There is a type of fee that actually has high micronutrients available?

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Nadia: the next question is, so change is required on many levels. But we need to still feed the planet. Where does the impetus for change need to come from government breeders, growers, or consumers. And I think this follow ups with question that I asked Martin. So where would it come from. Maybe

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Shailaja Fennell: I'll try. Okay, so

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Shailaja Fennell: So when we talk about food, security, food, sovereignty from the social sciences, these are all very different terms. For farmers who are facing risky markets. They usually want seed security, particularly in poor countries, because they want to complete the economic cycle. And so when they're moving to high-e varieties or Gmos. They need an assured

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Shailaja Fennell: assurance that they will be able to purchase the seeds, which means that they will have enough money to do that. and sometimes you have, therefore.

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Shailaja Fennell: collective crop insurance schemes that allows them to bind to 3 or 5 years so that they can do that, and that works well for a farmer community that has assets.

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Shailaja Fennell: Often the mismatch is when a program is trying to be scaling up very quickly. So all farmers, be they small or big, or cannot absorb risk as much as others get put into a program, and then you will have fall away because certain groups are not as well placed, some of it simply scale.

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Shailaja Fennell: But it can be as you said, Nadia, early on in relation to climate crisis. So there are places which are more directly affected, so they have a greater cyclicality of seasonal change than before, and they should not be areas where you introduce new crops. So we have to reconsider what the new technologies are going to be able to deliver in the light of that kind of increasing instability. That's the first.

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Shailaja Fennell: The second is the thing that's missing. Here is civil society.

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Shailaja Fennell: Farmers are not often brought in one of the things that's really interesting. Robert Chambers said this in the 60 s. When he I mean, he's now in his 90 s. Really, you know, fundamental thinking and changing in development. Beat the Nfu in England

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Shailaja Fennell: or farmers associations elsewhere. They don't often get a chance to talk to power.

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Shailaja Fennell: So he said the same thing about then, if you you got a National Farmers Union, but they don't come to the table, and governments making policies. They come through another organization. So he wrote a book called Who's

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Shailaja Fennell: Reality comes first.

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Shailaja Fennell: And the same narrative applies for the global South. So we're talking breeders. We're talking growers. Where are the farmers? They're the people producing the food

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Shailaja Fennell: that needs to be part of the conversation, because only they feel that they can take on board the changes. It doesn't have to be new tech. It can simply be the point about diversification. If you've got a new crop

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Shailaja Fennell: choice, you have to have a new set of metrics and measures. It is not a magic wand. It requires the same amount of work as extension farms did in the 40 s. And 50 s. When we brought new agriculture. So it's a process that builds trust. That takes time. The difficulty is a lot of these programs want to work in 5 or 10 year cycles which does not work with how farming and farm systems work. I'll keep quiet. Pass it on to Phil.

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Nadia: Bill. Do you want to add to that?

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Phil Howell: I would I we see neat

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Phil Howell: change all the way up. So

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Phil Howell: consumers

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Phil Howell: mean need to be more open to to different types, but equally the people pushing the options at the consumers, in the first place, need to be open to to more different types as well. So and

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Phil Howell: 3 days will often if the goal posts move in the testing system or the evaluation system, they will let you know it's in their interest to to keep producing winners so they will shift their selection to to meet whatever the new, the new goalposts are. But often it's it's governments that set those goal posts. It's governments. So it's it's the buyers of the crops that that set those goal posts. So so

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Phil Howell: I think I'm saying that the whole system has to be open to change for the system to be able to change otherwise. It'll hit a block somewhere, and and nothing will change.

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Nadia: Thanks. Felon, Charlie Jo.

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Nadia: I think we own coming to an end. So before we end our session, like, till us, each of our panelists, to give a final statement or message to the audience on the topic that we just discussed.

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Nadia: Martin, do you want to go best?

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Martin Jones: Yeah, I mean one of the things about

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Martin Jones: we've talked about? We've all said that wheat is is

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Martin Jones: is has

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Martin Jones: serious advantages.

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Martin Jones: But we've also pointed towards diversity. And I think we're the good news is we're much. We're much more able now scientifically to embark on an unknown crop

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Martin Jones: that we were just a generation ago.

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Martin Jones: and

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Martin Jones: Although the last 1,500 years has seen a great

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shrinking down.

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Martin Jones: So, as I say, a small number of plants accounting for the the most of the food chain.

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Martin Jones: Human history has shown a phenomenal

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Martin Jones: diversification of use, of

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Martin Jones: of many tens of thousands of different plants, and to great extent the advantages of our progress is, we can now explore diversity. In a different way. So although we we don't want to

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Martin Jones: put down wheat, it's it's a plant that serves purpose. We have the option of looking at other crops in a way. That we haven't in the past, and the only right is that, as I say, I think a key question is not how you can make a profit from plant, but how you can feed the hungry in the world, and that that is something I think we need to have in mind. Thank you.

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Set up there.

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Nadia: Thanks. Wanting.

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Nadia: Alex, so, Charlotte, yeah, do you wanna go next?

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Shailaja Fennell: Oh, sorry. I thought we were going the same order as last time. Yeah, yeah, sure. So Phil could go because I was

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Nadia: yeah.

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Phil Howell: What's what to say that I haven't said already. I feel like I've said an awful lot already. Ii think. Yes, we we I would keep going back to this diversification. So as well as broadening the genetic base of the of the crops that we're working on, bringing in new diversity from

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Phil Howell: from different sources, including the close relatives. So we do a lot of work with the close, close relatives of wheat, which often come from extreme climates and bring some some really interesting adaptations to to some of those stresses. So they'll be really useful for for helping to deal with climate change. We need to be open to different ways of of growing the crop. So I see there's there's another question we didn't have time to answer about.

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Phil Howell: How can we increase the grain protein and reduce fertilizer. Well, perhaps we could be open to things like intercropping, which used to happen in the past. You put more than one crop in the field. You have a legume that turns atmospheric nitrogen into nitrate in the in the ground, and then the cereal crop takes up that nitrate. You don't need as much cereal.

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Phil Howell: and and you harvest the the 2 crops together and and separate them out if you need to, or or keep them as a mixture. And these these sorts of things are

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Phil Howell: lessons that we learned in the past and forgot about, and we need to be open to to remembering those and not just living in in the past, of kind of sepia tones and aspect, but but combining the lessons we learned from

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Phil Howell: the olden days with with the opportunities and the science, the approach that that we have. Now, I think there's a way to bring the 2 together and really move forward. And finally, yes, we need to be much more open to a whole range of of different food ingredients and food types. As we move forward.

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Phil Howell: And now I'm definitely gonna stop talking.

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Shailaja Fennell: Thank you. So I, too, would like to echo diversity. But both diversity in terms of diverse knowledge systems, recognizing there is still quite a lot of tacit knowledge in how to cultivate, how to store, particularly in the context of climate crisis and logistics of cold chains. Any system that allows us to do it with a lower level of either

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Shailaja Fennell: energy use or more cyclical and recyclable systems would be very helpful. So terracotta jars is a far more effective way of cooling water, keeping sealing it. We've done this with honey, with other fluids. We can think about this across the globe. So one is managing it, and that's really important for the seed. Security for heritage varieties as well as managing, and

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Shailaja Fennell: elsewhere farmers have to be able to exchange. Farmers are most successful in crop choice by learning, by the demonstration effect they will travel distances, see, they will bring the seeds back. They will invite the other farmer communities. It can also be done for heritage varieties, and I'd like to add to that the consumption side, and that is the collection of

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Shailaja Fennell: dietary recipes which include the techniques. And we did that before Covid on the Tigris project we actually took recordings on phones our teams did in terms of how Ingiro is fermented in different parts of Ethiopia. They're different techniques now, we couldn't do further testing. But is it because they're in different places? Is it different sorghums. Is it the taste? We need to learn so much more if we have to integrate the food system so diversity? But on the human

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Shailaja Fennell: site and diversity understanding. The same crop can have different roles even in a regional context over to you, Alex.

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Alexa Bellows: Thank you so much. II really echo what everyone has said again, we've talked about Diversity a lot, and I'll say again, diversity is one of the best things that you can do when thinking about your diet. But I also think that

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Alexa Bellows: bread has been very demonized in

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Alexa Bellows: the recent like couple of decades. And it's because we're consuming bad bread and thinking about how we can

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Alexa Bellows: consume better bread. and also thinking about how we can make that bread accessible.

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Alexa Bellows: particular to everyone in the population. So really good bread, I think, is very expensive still.

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Alexa Bellows: particularly if you go to your local bakery and you get an artisan loaf. That's whole meal, Sourdough fermented. It's going to cost a lot more than what a lot of people can afford, particularly in this cost of living crisis that we're in.

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Alexa Bellows: And so thinking about policies that would also make these

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Alexa Bellows: types of bread or novel

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Alexa Bellows: breads that incorporate different ingredients more accessible to everyone is something that I think we should call on for our governments. And one of the ways is through

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Alexa Bellows: public procurement policies thinking about, you know, how can we

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Alexa Bellows: make this more accessible to everyone. So I think that's where I'll leave it.

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Nadia: Thank you all. Thank you to all of our panelists for today. So just to sum up almost running out of time. So clearly there is something wrong with, but it is a very complex system, and so partly how we can actually improve our food system is, we should consider diversification of our cereals, improving our supply chain

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Nadia: and reutilizing traditional knowledge. That we have to have a better and healthier system, and hopefully better cereals, too.

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So

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Nadia: Sorry that there are a couple of Q&A questions that we have been able to answer. Please feel free to email, Francesca, fr. 22, 2, 2, 4@cam.ec.uk for your question to be answered. And with that. Thank you so much for everyone attending our webinar today.

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Nadia: and if you like to add, be added to our mailing list and receive information on the future. Events please contact Francesco, reminding, too.

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Nadia: and have a good evening.

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